We’ve done our fair share of outdoor climbing before, and we recognize that there’s some pretty nuanced differences between trad climbing and other forms of climbing. While both are rewarding, trad climbing adds an extra level of challenge to the sport and its also seen as a more pure form of climbing. In this article, we’ll share some of our top picks of trad climbing harnesses based on online reviews. Check out our faves below to find yourself a few options.
What are the Best Trad Climbing Harness?
Below you’ll find the list of the top 5 Best Trad Climbing Harness. We compiled this list from trad climbing harnesses we have used, asked others about, and researched further to give you the best possible roundup. With many years of experience with climbing harnesses for trad climbing you can be assured that this article will give you what you’re looking for.
We also wrote a buying guide and answered some of the frequently asked questions (FAQs) at the end of this article.
1. PETZL Corax Climbing Harness
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| Price: 💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 1.54 pounds (0.7 kg) Number of Gear Loops: 4 Adjustable leg loops: No User Weight Capacity: 300 lbs |
The PETZL Corax has been carefully designed for maximum comfort, even while under heavy load-bearing strain. The waist belt has been carefully padded to both ensure comfort and to reduce pressure points and abbrasive seams. There are plenty of gear loops for storing enough gear for long trad and multipitch routes, although some trad climbers may find the inability to adjust the straps around their legs a minor comfort inconvenience. The harness has also been designed to distribute weight as evenly as possible through spectra strands on the leg loops and through the waistbelt.
Pros
- Comfortably padded for extended use.
- Fully adjustable wasit band.
- No through stitching to minimalise chaffing and pressure points
- Plenty of gear loops
- Made with BlueSign certified materials
Cons
- Leg bands are not adjustable
- Slightly heavier than other harnesses of a similar standard
2. Black Diamond Mens Solution Guide Climbing Harness
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| Price: 💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 1.9 pounds (0.86 kg) Number of Gear Loops: 4 Adjustable leg loops: No User Weight Capacity: 250 lbs |
The Black Diamond Solution has been engineered to reduce all unnecessary features to minimalise weight while still providing enough to cope with trad climbing or multi-pitch routes which require a fair amount of gear. The gear loops are pressure molded to ensure that they retain a shape that allows quick and easy attachment and removal of gear and their duraility. The front loop is intuitively differently colored to help easily distinguish it from the rest of the harness. The leg loops are generously padded to maximise comfort, even when using for a long period of time.
Pros
- Extremely durable construction.
- Enough reinforced gear loops for trad climbing and long multi-pitch routes.
- Comfortable and light enough to be worn all day without problems.
Cons
- Towards the heavier end of the products on this list.
- Leg loops are fixed and cannot be adjusted
3. Metolius Women’s Safe Tech Deluxe SB Harness
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| Price: 💲💲💲💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 2.47 pounds (1.12 kg) Number of Gear Loops: 4 Adjustable leg loops: Yes |
The Metolius Women’s Safe SB Harness is crafted with the trad climber in mind, ensuring safety as the top priority! It’s made to let you move freely and easily while you climb. It has a tough hardy exterior but is soft and comfy inside, with a wide design for maximum comfort and top-notch support. It’s also fully adjustable to fit a variety of body shapes and sizes.
It might feel a bit different to use at first, since it has some inconsistent gear loops, but when it comes to keeping you safe while you’re reaching new heights, it’s simply unmatched.
Pros
- Fully adjustable
- Wide design for comfort
- Great lower back support
- Durable and extremely safe
Cons
- Gear loops may seem less consistent than other models
- Design setup is different from the conventional
4. Mammut Men Ophir 3 Slide individuell
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| Price: 💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 1.81 pounds (0.82 kg) Number of Gear Loops: 4 Adjustable leg loops: Yes |
Meet the Mammut Ophir 3, a well-rounded harness from a brand we all know and trust. It might be a bit bulkier that other models, but it’s affordable, light, and has everything you need for long multi-pitch or trad climbing adventures. It has plenty of room for your trad gear, three adjustable buckles for a perfect fit and its breathable fabric keeps you cool on those long climbs. However, keep in mind that this harness is monochromatic so it can be hard to see some features in low lighting.
Pros
- Breathable fabric
- Adjustable leg straps
- Four large gear loops
- Protection against abraison on tie-in loop
Cons
- Appear bulkier compared to other harnesses
5. Black Diamond Mens Technician Harness
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| Price: 💲💲💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 1.85 pounds (0.84 kg) Number of Gear Loops: 4 Adjustable leg loops: Yes User Weight Capacity: 310 lbs |
The Black Diamond Technician Harness is a fantastic addition to the list. Manufactured with a plethora of storage options for a wide array of gear, including specialised ports for ice climbing equipment, the lightweight and sleek harness both excels in safety and performance for even the most flexible of climbers. It is fully adjustable through specially designed speed-buckles on the legs, and the quick-drying, well fitted waist is comfortable to climb hard in all day long.
Pros
- Complete with four ice clipper slots.
- Lightweight, sleek design.
- Fully adjustable legs.
- Four wide, pressure-molded gear loops
Cons
- A little expensive for those who are trying to budget.
- Extra loop on the back may get in the way
Verdict
Based on all of our experience with climbing harnesses for trad climbing, we found that PETZL Corax Climbing Harness is the best trad climbing harness available today.
Our Premium Option is Metolius Women’s Safe Tech Deluxe SB Harness with all the best features and high-quality materials, but that’s only if you have more money to spend.
However, if you are on a slightly tighter budget, you can also consider the Black Diamond Mens Solution Guide Climbing Harness as an affordable alternative.
Our other reviews you may find useful in your research:
What You Should Know Before Buying trad climbing harnesses
Trad Climbing Gear Loops
Your trad harness should have several gear loops. As a result of requiring extra protective gear, the harness that you use for trad climbing should have generous options for storing equipment on. You should search for a climbing harness with multiple large gear loops to ensure that all of your cams, nuts, bolts, monkey fists, slings, and whatever else. These should be somewhere on the harness that, when climbing, your equipment should hang to your side or behind you and not hinder your performance.
Weight of Harness for Trad
The weight of your harness for trad climbing largely depends on the route that you intend to tackle. If the climnb is well documented, you should be able to meticulously plan what equipment you need on your rack and to tactifully reduce it as much as possible while still having enough to ensure your safety. If you are unsure, always take a few extra pieces of equipment, as a heavy rack is better than fatal danger.
Importance of Leg Loops Fit for Trad Climbing
Well fitting leg loops are important as they help to evenly distribute the force created by a fall around your entire harness, which reduces pressure on pressure points and helps the harness to live longer and you to fall or absorb a partners fall more comfortably. Furthermore, well fitted leg loops will help you to stay safely upright when you weight the rope during the fall, although the presence of any leg loop should do this sufficiently. It also makes the harness more comfortable for longer periods of climbing.
Comfort and Pricing of Trad Harnesses
The comfort and pricing of your trad harness can vary greatly depending on brand and type. Trad harnesses, much like any other harness, are constructed with comfort in mind. As you are going to be wearing it for long periods of time, specialised trad harnesses come with extra thick padding, a lack of prominent seams that can cause discomfort, multiple adjustment points, and a wide design to maximise your comfort. You can usually find a specialised trad climbing harness in the range of 60$ to 140$ if purchasing online. This may be a little higher if buying in store, however, it allows you to try it on before you buy it.
Questions and Answers About trad climbing harnesses
What’s the difference between trad climbing and sport climbing?
The main difference between sports climbing and trad climbing is the original set up of the rock face and placement of quick draws. On a sports route, you can expect to find secure bolts bolted into the rock face every couple of meters, into which you can hook on quick-draws and then follow with the rope. In trad climbing, these bolts are few and far between, if they exist at all, and the main way to ascend is to use a different set of protective gear, such as cams and slings, to ensure that they ascend up the wall.
What gear do you need for trad climbing?
As well as a harness, climbing shoes, quick draws, and a rope, you should also bring any additional safety equipment that the route requires. This can include slings, cams, nuts, monkey fists, and extra clips and carabiners.
Whats the difference between a tree climbing harness and a rock climbing harness?
There are fundamental differences between both tree and rock climbing harnesses. Rock climbing harnesses are built to take large amounts of force or “shock loads” when a climber falls. Tree harnesses are not designed for the high impact of falls. Tree harnesses are built for hours of suspension and will be loads more comfortable than rock harnesses. The side d-rings of tree harnesses are used with an adjustable lanyard for a second tie in point. Rock harnesses have no d-rings. Rock harnesses have a narrower waist loop and this stresses the back and stomach area.
Do you need quickdraws for trad climbing?
Sometimes, you will need quickdraws for trad climbing. Most trad routes have at least one solid bolt, which can be loaded with a quick draw. They can also be very helpful for creating protection using slings. Ultimately, it depends on the route, and what protection already exists, what regulations are in place, and what protection is required of you to safely climb.
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