When it comes to rock climbing and top rope, an Air Traffic Controller (ATC) is one of the most important pieces of rock climbing gadget and device. It is what you use to belay to keep your climber safe when they’re high on the wall whether indoors or free climbing in the great outdoors.
It is also an essential element in trad climbing and rappelling. Choosing the right ATC for you requires time and effort, which is why we’ve written this article!
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What is the Best Atc Belaying Device?
To decide on the absolute best atc belaying device, we have examined dozens of and reviews left by real users who bought and used them. Based on what they experienced and shared, we have shortlisted the top 10 for you to consider, including their most important features, to help you make an informed decision.
On top of that, to make it easier for you, we have also compiled a list of key/ critical things and frequently asked questions (FAQs) to consider before buying . You can find it further down in the article. So without further ado, here’s introducing the best atc belaying device.
1. Black Diamond Big Air XP Package
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| Price: 💲💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 1.8 Pounds (0.8 kg) |
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One of the best options for someone new to climbing, the Black Diamond Big Air Package comes with both an ATC and a locking carabiner, everything that you need to start belaying safely.
Additionally, the new Black Diamond ATC is 30% lighter, ensuring that you won’t have to carry any extra weight with you on your approach hike or multi-pitch climb.
Pros
- Comes with locking carabiner
- Extra lightweight design
- High-friction mode offers extra stopping power
Cons
- Only comes in one color
- More expensive than just purchasing an ATC
2. PETZL Reverso Climbing Belay Device
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| Price: 💲💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 0.1 Pounds (0.1 kg) |
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The PETZL Reverso ATC is your basic, all-around belay device that is perfect for gym climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and everything in between.
It is suitable for a wide variety of rope diameters and is well-suited for belaying two climbers simultaneously from the top of a pitch.
Pros
- Suitable for any type of climbing
- Comes in a wide range of colors
- Suitable and safe for rappelling
Cons
- Expensive
3. Mammut Crag Light Belay Device
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| Price: 💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 0.1 Pounds (0.1 kg) |
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The Mammut Crag Light Belay Device is one of the more affordable ATC options on the market.
It is a very basic design, meaning that it is best fit for gym climbing or sport climbing, so if you plan on doing any multi-pitch or traditional climbing, this may not be the best option for you.
Pros
- Very affordable
- Extra grooves for high-friction security
Cons
- Not suited for multi-pitch or traditional climbing
- Only comes in one color
4. EDELRID Mega Jul Belay Device
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| Price: 💲💲💲💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 0.3 Pounds (0.1 kg) |
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Though certainly one of the pricier options on the market, the Mega Jul Belay Device is one of the most complete packages you can find. It fits a wide range of ropes, from 7.8-10.5 mm, and is perfect for both belaying and abseiling.
Additionally, it comes with a locking carabiner with a safety gate that prevents the device from cross loading.
Pros
- Perfect for practically any type of climbing and lowering
- Extra safe carabiner equipped with safety gate and locking capabilities
- Extra lightweight device
Cons
- Very expensive
5. CAMP Shell Belay Device
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| Price: 💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 0.1 Pounds (0.1 kg) |
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Though perhaps the most affordable option on the market, the CAMP Shell ATC is quite limited in its uses.
It is really only appropriate for 10-11 mm ropes, so it is most apt for gym climbing, but this is not the belay device that you’ll want if you plan on climbing outside.
Pros
- Most affordable option on the market
Cons
- Not suitable for lowering or outdoor climbing
- Very limited in the rope diameter that you can use
6. KAILAS ATC Alopias Belay Rappel Device
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| Price: 💲💲💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 0.2 Pounds (0.1 kg) |
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The KAILAS ATC serves as a reverso belay device appropriate for swapping leads, making it an excellent option for traditional and multi-pitch climbing.
Pros
- ATC equipped for various mode
- Appropriate for both belaying and rappelling
Cons
- Only available in one color
- Less popular brand
7. DMM Pivot Belay Device
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| Price: 💲💲💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 1.6 Pounds (0.7 kg) |
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The DMM Pivot ATC is one of the most affordable, versatile options on the market.
It comes in a range of colors and offers multiple friction modes for a wide variety of uses, especially lowering. This is a great belay device for anyone looking for a first ATC.
Pros
- Lightweight and affordable
- Comes in a variety of colors
- Pivot mode perfect for switching to lowering
Cons
- Doesn’t come with a carabiner
8. PETZL Grigri Belay Device
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| Price: 💲💲💲💲💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 0.4 Pounds (0.2 kg) |
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This is an extremely safe and secure belay device fit for a wide variety of rope diameters, from 8.5 to 11mm. Its automatic braking system adds in an extra level of security, though it does take a bit of time getting used to, so may not be the best choice for beginners.
Pros
- Assisted braking system adds extra level of safety
- Perfect for unexpected falls common in gym and sport climbing
- Comes in a variety of colors
Cons
- On the pricier end
- Can only be used with single ropes
- Best suited for experienced belayers, not beginners
9. Mammut Smarter Belay Package
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| Price: 💲💲💲💲💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 0.4 Pounds (0.1 kg) |
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The Mammut Smarter Belay Package offers an assisted braking belay device at a more affordable price.
This option includes an automatic locking belay device and a locking carabiner with a safety gate. In contrast to the PETZL Grigri, it is a more appropriate option for beginner climbers. Not to mention, the colour is so pretty that will definitely attract many female climbers.
Pros
- Affordable pack that comes with ABD and locking safety carabiner
- Comes in two color options
- Suitable for beginners
Cons
- If you’re an advanced climber, the PETZL Grigri is a better option
- Not a universal style, so might be hard switching to other belay devices
10. Mad Rock Lifeguard
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| Price: 💲💲💲💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 0.3 Pounds (0.1 kg) |
See it in your local store:
The Mad Rock Lifeguard is our final belay device, and while it is more expensive than the Mammut Starter Pack, it is a more affordable option than the PETZL Grigri.
It can be used with single ropes ranging from 8.9 to 11 mm in diameter and is lightweight and durable.
Pros
- Intermediate option in terms of price
Cons
- Only comes in one color
- Not the most common belay device, so switching to other ones could be challenging
- Can only be used with single ropes
Verdict
Following all the research, comparisons and information we have gathered about these top , we can confidently say that Black Diamond Big Air XP Package is the best out in the market.
However, if you are on a slightly tighter budget, you can also consider the Mammut Crag Light Belay Device as an affordable alternative.
Lastly, if you are looking for something with all the best features made with high-quality materials and would like to consider all the premium options out there, we strongly recommend the PETZL Reverso Climbing Belay Device.
What You Should Know Before Buying Atc Belaying Devices
How To Pick The Best Atc
To begin, one of the most important things to keep in mind is the type of rock climbing that you’ll be doing.
If you only single-pitch sport climb, a basic ATC or an ABD will be best suited for your needs. However, if you are interested in traditional or multi-pitch climbing, your ATC and belay device might need to have some added features like belaying from the top. Remember that some of these devices come with extra grip or tension, in the even you loosen your finger grip by mistake, it prevents the rope from running free.
Advantages And Benefits Of Atc Vs Abd
We should start out by making the distinction between an ATC and an ABD. An ATC, which originally stood for “air traffic controller”, refers to any tubular belay device. ATC belay devices are the most versatile, as they are suitable for any type of rope climbing and can also be used for rappelling.
Advantages and Benefits of ATC vs ABD when outdoor lead climbing
On the other hand, assisted-braking belay devices (ABD) are more commonly used in sport climbing and gym climbing. They are a good option for often and/or unexpected falls, as their automatic locking features add an extra layer of security.
However, they tend to be heavier than an ATC device and cannot be used with two ropes, which is often necessary when traditional climbing. They are also not ideal lowering devices, ruling them out when it comes to rappelling.
Grigri Vs Atc
For those who may be unaware, the Petzl grigri is also known as an ABD, so the key differences and benefits have already been clearly mentioned above. Personally, I have both a Black Diamond ATC and a Petzl gri gri, and I rotate between both.
Things To Look Out For That Differentiate Atcs
There are a number of features that differentiate the multiple ATC devices that are available on the market. First off, some ATC devices come with a locking carabiner, which will be a necessary feature when belaying.
So, if you don’t already have one, it may be a good idea to buy the two in a package deal. Additionally, you’ll want to pay attention to the weight of the ATC, as you’ll want something lighter if you plan on using it on multi-pitch routes.
Proper And Safe Usage
An ATC is a piece of equipment that requires special training to use properly, given that it can fail as a result of human error. Therefore, before using one, you should always receive proper instruction from a trained professional.
Additionally, you’ll always want to double check that your ATC is facing the right way and that your carabiner is locked before your climber sets off on their climb. Taking these simple precautions will ensure that everyone stays safe and secure.
Precautions To Take Note Of
It is important to note that the safety of an ATC belay device depends on the competence of its user, so you should always be prepared and aware.
Unexpected falls or large weight differences between the climber and the belayer can pose risks, but as long as you are well-equipped to operate your ATC, you will have nothing to worry about. The automatic locking features of an ABD adds an extra layer of security, but just remember that these devices are not suitable for all types of climbing and lowering.
There are so many options on the market when it comes to choosing a belay device, and at the end of the day, making the right choice comes down to knowing your necessities and abilities.
However, our top pick is the Petzl Reverso. It is an affordable option that is apt for both beginner and advanced climbers and allows for quick and easy transitions into guide mode, allowing the user to switch between belaying and lowering in a flash.
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