Ice climbers are often faced with some extreme climate and ice fall situations in which they need to be secured at all times, even in the slipperiest of conditions. A good quality ice climbing harness should have a wide range of features that will keep you safe and secure while you traverse the icy slopes. To find out more about what makes an excellent ice climbing harness, we’re going to talk about how an ice climber’s needs change as their level progresses from beginner all the way up through expert level. We’ll also cover why having different standards of gear for different climbing levels is so important when it comes to safety and security, and share some of our top picks for ice climbing harnesses.
What is the Best Ice Climbing Harness?
Below you’ll find the list of the top 5 Best Ice Climbing Harness. We compiled this list from ice climbing harnesss we have used, asked others about, and researched further to give you the best possible roundup. With many years of experience with harnesses for ice climbing you can be assured that this article will give you what you’re looking for.
We also wrote a buying guide and answered some of the frequently asked questions (FAQs) at the end of this article.
1. Black Diamond Technician Men Harness
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| Price: 💲💲💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 1.85 pounds (0.84 kg) Number of Gear Loops: 4 Adjustable leg loops: Yes User Weight Capacity: 310 lbs |
The Black Diamond Technician Harness is a fantastic addition to the list. Manufactured with a plethora of storage options for a wide array of gear, including specialised ports for ice climbing equipment, the lightweight and sleek harness both excels in safety and performance for even the most flexible of ice climbers. It is fully adjustable through specially designed speed-buckles on the legs, and the quick-drying, well fitted waist is comfortable to climb hard in all day long.
Pros
- Complete with four ice clipper slots.
- Lightweight, sleek design.
- Fully adjustable legs.
- Four wide, pressure-molded gear loops
Cons
- A little expensive for those who are trying to budget.
- Extra loop on the back may get in the way
2. PETZL Corax Rock Climbing Harness
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| Price: 💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 1.1 pounds (0.5 kg) Number of Gear Loops: 4 Adjustable leg loops: Yes User Weight Capacity: 264 lbs |
Through four reinforced buckles, the PETZL Corax can be fitted to climbers of any size or shape. The deisgn, though visually traditional, has been refined for maximum comfort and performance with a thick, padded waistband, wide leg loops and soft, fabric inners. The varied gear loops provide plenty of options for storing your entire array of ice climbing equipment needed to safely send the icy route.
Pros
- Four points of adjustment to completely tailor the fit of the harness.
- Wide and comfortable padded waistband.
- Four gear loops – two pressure molded and two flexible loops
Cons
- Leg loops prone to uncomfortable twisting when putting on,
- Buckles can create unnecessary pressure points when falling
3. Black Diamond Mens Solution Climbing Harness
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| Price: 💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 1.9 pounds (0.86 kg) Number of Gear Loops: 4 Adjustable leg loops: No User Weight Capacity: 250 lbs |
The Black Diamond Solution has been engineered to reduce all unnecessary features to minimalise weight while still providing enough to cope with ice climbing routes which require a fair amount of gear. The gear loops are pressure molded to ensure that they retain a shape that allows quick and easy attachment and removal of ice climbing gear and their duraility. The front loop is intuitively differently colored to help easily distinguish it from the rest of the harness. The leg loops are generously padded to maximise comfort, even when using for a long period of time.
Pros
- Extremely durable construction.
- Enough reinforced gear loops for trad climbing and long multi-pitch routes.
- Comfortable and light enough to be worn all day without problems.
Cons
- Towards the heavier end of the products on this list.
- Leg loops are fixed and cannot be adjusted
4. Mammut Men Ophir 3 Slide individuell
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| Price: 💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 1.81 pounds (0.82 kg) Number of Gear Loops: 4 Adjustable leg loops: Yes |
This Mammut Ophir harness is a great all-around choice. It’s slightly bulkier but don’t let that fool you—it’s still lightweight, budget-friendly, and equipped with everything you need for extensive ice climbing routes. With ample storage, adjustability, and breathable material to minimize sweat, it’s a solid pick for your climbing needs.
Pros
- Breathable and comfortable fabric
- Legs are fully adjustable
- Gear loops are extra wide
- Abrasion protection on tie-in loop
Cons
- Details hidden due to monochromatic design
- Bulky design
5. Metolius Safe Tech Deluxe SB Harness
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| Price: 💲💲💲💲 (fewer 💲 = cheaper) Weight: 2.47 pounds (1.12 kg) Number of Gear Loops: 4 Adjustable leg loops: Yes User Weight Capacity: 310 lbs |
Meet the Metolius Safe Tech Deluxe SB Harness. This harness was created with safety and mobility in mind for those challenging sit-ins and extensive moves. This harness also ensures strong support, making your journey through sport climbing routes feel smooth and effortless. Though the loops are asymmetrical and a bit complex, the comfort this harness brings is unmatched.
Pros
- Fully adjustable design
- Wide leg loops
- Added cushion for comfort
- Added lower back support
Cons
- Central loop is complex
- Gear loops are asymmetrical
Verdict
Based on all of our experience with harnesses for ice climbing, we found that Black Diamond Technician Men Harness is the best ice climbing harness available today.
Our Premium Option is Metolius Safe Tech Deluxe SB Harness with all the best features and high-quality materials, but that’s only if you have more money to spend.
However, if you are on a slightly tighter budget, you can also consider the Black Diamond Mens Solution Climbing Harness as an affordable alternative.
Our other reviews you may find useful in your research:
What You Should Know Before Buying ice climbing harnesss
How to Use and Wear a Climbing Harness
Everyone needs to learn how to use and wear their climbing harness. Climbing harnesses should be tightened to fit snugly around the waist (above the hips). The leg loops tend to be left slightly looser around the legs. Make sure the gear loops point downwards and the leg loops are the right way around – I can’t believe how many people I’ve seen wearing upside down or tangled harnesses at my gym! If in doubt – ask another climber for assistance.
When tying in, the rope should be fed through both the attachment points and the belay device should be attached to the belay loop. Remember – the belay loops and tie in points tend to be the only parts of the harness that are rated to withstand force – so make sure you’re tying in and belaying from the right points! Again, a buddy-check with your climbing partner before you set off should be a regular part of your routine.
Key Features of Your Climbing Harness
There are different features of your climbing harness, and understanding the different features and what they are (or aren’t!) used for will keep you safe and happy on the wall. Thankfully, rock climbing harnesses tend to follow a standard design.
Any harness on the market will likely comprise of an adjustable waist belt and two leg loops all linked together by an elasticated cord. At the front, connecting the waist and leg loops is a loop of thick cord known as the belay loop. At the top and bottom of the belay loops are two smaller loops of material – these are known as the tie in points. These tie-in points and the belay loop are the parts of the harness that are rated –or built to withstand force. Thus, they are usually the point at which you are attached to the system.
Other features on a rock-climbing harness will vary. Some harnesses will be built to be ultra-lightweight, while some will be heavier and more geared towards comfort and support (ideal for long days in the mountains multi pitch climbing). Almost all harnesses will have gear loops – for helping you transport your quickdraws, trad rack, or just belay device – but the number and size will also depend on the harness’s intended use.
Questions and Answers About ice climbing harnesss
How much weight can a climbing harness hold?
The weight your climbing harness can hold really depends on the make and model, and the information will be on your supplier’s website. In general, most standard climbing harnesses will safely carry up to 310lbs/140.6kgs. If you’re heavier than that you’re best investing in a full-body harness.
What size harness do I need for climbing?
The size you get depends on both your size and the manufacturer. Suppliers will have size information on the waist and leg loop circumferences on their website, so check this against your own measurements. Even so, it’s always a safer option to try a harness on before you buy.
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